20240619_125744Along Sawtelle Boulevard (June 2024)

There is no doubt that Los Angeles has a huge Japanese-American community, scattered throughout the city and county from Little Tokyo in downtown LA to the South Bay. However, there is also a smaller, but tight-knit community on the west side in Sawtelle Japantown (“Sawtelle,” for short). Nicknamed “Little Osaka,” this neighborhood has been historically-significant with the Nikkei (Japanese diaspora), and it is reflected in its culture today.

Sawtelle Japantown was originally the land of the indigenous Tongva people, on which there was a village called Kuruvungna that existed for thousands of years. What made Kuruvungna a notable site was its natural springs, now limited to a preserved few in the neighborhood’s University High School today. The land eventually passed through the hands of the Spanish in 1769 before being acquired by the Pacific Land Company in 1896, to create a town to house US veterans and their families near the Veterans Home, built just a decade prior.

Named after the Pacific Land Company’s president W.E. Sawtelle, the town was only independent until 1922, when the city of Los Angeles annexed it. Sawtelle soon drew a sizable Japanese-American community in the 1930’s, due to exclusionary laws preventing them from settling elsewhere in Los Angeles. The Nikkei did farming, and at one point had over two dozen garden centers in town– a few still thrive today. Unfortunately, many were displaced during internment during World War II, and sadly, many did not return to Sawtelle following the war. Although the neighborhood has a 17% Japanese population today, it has since been replaced by a predominantly white and Hispanic community.

Sawtelle is located on what’s called the “Westside” of Los Angeles– bordered by well-known and affluent neighborhoods like Santa Monica, Brentwood, and Culver City. It’s small, but compact, with plenty of walkable blocks to get from place to place with ease. One of the most-popular areas of town is on the northern stretch of Sawtelle Boulevard, which consists of five blocks of restaurants, cafés, and gift stores to eat, drink, and shop to your heart’s content.

20240619_121540Sawtelle Boulevard

For those who love Japanese cuisine, Sawtelle is foodie heaven. There is shop after shop of incredible eats, from familiar dishes like ramen and sushi to more niche plates like mazemen, okonomiyaki, and yakitori. There is the fan favorite Tsujita LA which serves tsukemen (dipping noodles), and there is always a line to dine in– get there early! However, Sawtelle isn’t just limited to Japanese food, as there are also plenty of restaurants specializing in Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Vietnamese, even Filipino cuisines. Not to forget dozens of aesthetically-pleasing cafés, tea shops, and dessert spots following a delicious meal.

20231118_111153Tsukemen at Tsujita LA (open as of 2024)

20200128_180311Custard crepe at Millet Crepe (open as of 2024)

The perfect day in Sawtelle would be to get lunch, then coffee/tea and dessert, before window shopping at the handful of boutique stores along the boulevard. From clothing to stationary to anime collectibles, there are plenty of tempting trinkets that will catch your eye to buy. You can also go to Daiso (the Japanese version “one dollar store”) for some inexpensive everyday items, as well as the Nijiya Market for some Japanese groceries!

Not only that, but there are still a couple of nurseries where you can browse and purchase plants and seeds to start your own garden. As mentioned, these nurseries are remnants of the Nikkei farming community in the 1930’s and 1940’s, which have since been passed down generation to generation. They are absolutely teeming with just about any sort of flower or plant you could imagine, all beautiful and surprisingly-affordable to purchase (along with their seeds). Even if you don’t have a green thumb, it’s worth a visit to enjoy the peaceful, almost Zen, atmosphere away from the hustle and bustle of its food-filled corridor.

20240811_122049Hashimoto Nursery: one of two nurseries still around today

20240818_124455Inside the nursery


20240818_124345Gorgeous plants for sale

With the city of Los Angeles ever-changing, it is also wonderful to see that places like Sawtelle are having their history acknowledged. In fact, the neighborhood was officially named “Sawtelle Japantown” in 2015 after the Los Angeles City Council gave its approval. I believe it’s a great way to honor the minority community who has made the neighborhood what it is today, to give thanks to their hard work and presence as they add cultural richness to an already diverse city as Los Angeles.

Thanks for reading! Have a wonderful day 🙂

— Rebecca

45 thoughts on “Lost in LA: Sawtelle Japantown

    1. Absolutely! Millet Crêpe is a popular spot for post-lunch patrons looking for something sweet. Sawtelle is a great neighborhood to showcase the abundant Japanese food and rich Japanese history, all within a few blocks! Thanks for reading, Darlene 😊

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    1. Side note: I haven’t had it on Sawtelle but, so far, the best mazemen I’ve had was sesame, at the Irvine Whole Foods. I’d love to try it on Sawtelle but I recall parking being limited and I currently have a very short walking range.

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      1. Yes, there’s mazemen in several restaurants on Sawtelle: I’ve had it before, and while it’s a bit too rich for me, it is tasty! Irvine is nothing short of excellent Asian food, and perhaps closer to where you are! Thanks for sharing 😊

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      1. I started collecting works by Marc Johns when he was blogging on Vox. I couldn’t resist going to see his exhibit. I went with one purchase in mind but picked another – and felt GREAT when someone else tried to buy it like I was being rung up.
        The store has lots of fun oddities!

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    1. Sawtelle is prime location for solid Asian food, especially Japanese. Always a place to hang out with friends, family, and loved ones. The nurseries are lovely and even if you don’t have a green thumb, they’re teeming with gorgeous flowers to admire!

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  1. That custard crepe looks so big! I’m always drawn to plant nurseries, and the ones in your photos are just the kind where I can spend a long time just marveling at the plants while thinking of what to buy.

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    1. Yes, the custard crêpe is big, but it’s so good that it doesn’t merit sharing, haha! Sawtelle is an awesome place to eat and shop, as well as get inspired for your next gardening project at the nurseries!

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    1. Sawtelle is a small neighborhood, but it’s packed with incredible Asian eats and cute places to shop around in. The nurseries are beautiful and seeping in history! Hope you can visit if you return to LA 🙂

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    1. LA is incredibly diverse; you’ll never get bored trying out all of its different cuisines from all over the world. Sawtelle is no exception for excellent Japanese food. The custard crêpe is delicious and a must-get if in the area!

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  2. What a charming clean, green neighbourhood. As you say the food alone surely makes this a worthwhile visit and as plant and flower lovers the nursery are an extra incentive to hang around post-meal. Thanks for putting Sawtelle on my radar.

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    1. Absolutely! Given LA has a long and rich Japanese-American history, it’s great the city is acknowledging it. The nurseries are gorgeous, and I’m sure you’d enjoy wandering around and dreaming up your next gardening project!

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  3. I haven’t been to the Westside and Sawtelle in a long time. The first time I tried tsukemen was at Tsujita LA and I was hooked. I’m Japanese American and I never even heard of it until I was an adult. I’m going to have to go back soon to have it again.

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    1. Yes, Tsujita is one of my favorites in Sawtelle; it’s always a treat to head there for some tasty tsukemen. In fact, I was just in Sawtelle this past weekend, and I had some delicious udon. Hope you can make the trek over for some yummy Japanese food!

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