Bibliothèque nationale- Richelieu site (March 2023)
Alas, my luck with avoiding the French transport strikes ran dry: I found out not only the trains would be severely-impacted, but also the metro. I had plans to take a day trip that day, but sadly had to stay put until the demonstrations ended. However, the strikes didn’t stop me from exploring within the city, and I still got to see and do a lot that day.
I started my day with a visit to the bibliothèque nationale de France– Richelieu, one of the main libraries in the city. I’d previously visited a few others in Paris, but this one was especially lovely: the oval room was spacious and stunning, and I took a moment to sit down and enjoy a book (DC comics!) before I headed back out.
Next, I headed for a pâtisserie at Philippe Conticini. A friend had highly-recommended this high-end pastry shop for some exquisite desserts, and I knew I had to give it a try. I arrived early and opted for a beautiful Saint-Honoré and some tea. This Saint-Honoré was nothing like other ones I’ve had before: light and airy vanilla mousse petals, a delicate and crackling choux, and a hearty tender crust. I had no regrets paying nearly 10€ for a single dessert, and it was certainly a gustatory experience I’d gladly have again.
Saint-Honoré dessert (so good!)
It was soon time for lunch. I headed to another bouillon, bouillon République, for some traditional, but affordable Parisian food. There was a demonstration about to happen nearby on the place de la République, but thankfully, I was able to eat and leave before the protests happened. I ordered deviled eggs and brandade de morue, which were simple but decent. The décor inside was lovely and made you feel transported back in time to the early 20th century.
Inside bouillon République
Brandade de morue
Although I was full from lunch, that didn’t stop me from grabbing a cookie from a local cookie chain another friend had recommended me. I got the matcha-white chocolate-cranberry cookie, which was massive and absolutely decadent. Very rich and reminded me of the trendy cookie shops you get in the US (e.g. Crumbl, Levain Bakery).
Matcha-white chocolate-cranberry cookie
The metros near République weren’t working whatsoever, so I went on foot to la Cour Damoye, a small street tucked away behind the main square. My French friend had recommended this place to me, and I spent some time admiring the secluded charm of this pedestrian-only road. The buildings are home to local designers and coffee brewers, and I can imagine the ivy grown along the walls flourish in warmer weather!
Cour Damoye
I was able to walk further away from the protests and catch one of the few working metros back to my Airbnb, where I rested for the afternoon before I decided to return out for another speakeasy pub crawl: I’d done one during my first day in Paris, and I was going for round two. I started off with one with a red door, which wasn’t too hidden, and I opted for a bell pepper cocktail, which was actually really good: I don’t like bell peppers, but this cocktail really highlighted it with a mix of sharp and acidic, but refreshing at the same time.
Bell pepper cocktail
Next was a visit to an Arabian-themed speakeasy, located behind a shelf of a small l’épicerie. This one turned out to be my favorite of all the ones I’ve visited so far, as I found the entrance hidden and fun to discover…and the tzatziki cocktail I had was a beautiful surprise: creamy and full of cucumber taste. Super super good!
Entrance to speakeasy!
Finally, I visited my third speakeasy, which was situated underneath a Chinese dim sum joint. The cocktails were Asian-inspired, too, and I opted for a Sriracha cocktail– it wasn’t my favorite of the other two speakeasies I’d been to, but not terrible. I was also getting pretty hungry, so I got some egg rolls to munch on while I enjoyed my drink and waited for the metros to completely reopen after a full day of protests. I caught the metro back at 20h00 and rested for the night.
Sriracha cocktail
Despite the protests and strikes that limited me that day, I was still able to do a lot while in Paris. And fortunately, they ended the following day, so I could take my day trips and explore more of the region. The next few posts will recap my day trips I took from Paris (including a new country!), so stay tuned! Until then. 🙂
— Rebecca
Rebecca Goes Rendezvous 
Wow, no transport strike can slow you down, Rebecca. The Bibliothèque nationale is gorgeous. Thanks for putting it on my radar. The food, the drinks. Many cool speakeasies. Thanks for the tour.
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Absolutely! I made the most of my time in Paris without much public transport, and it worked out in the end 🙂
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Got your steps in, no guilt desserts! 😉
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The strikes never ends is a pastime, pl de la République is central, but at least you got your foodies done lol!
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Definitely! The strikes were especially bad last spring, but luckily, it didn’t affect me too much!
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Good for you, Rebecca for not letting transport strikes and protests keep you from exploring! The desserts look so pretty, I don’t blame you for splurging. Thank you for sharing.
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Thanks, Darlene! The strikes were an inconvenience, but I still saw many sites and ate a lot of good food (especially desserts)!
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I too enjoyed a trip to the Bibliothèque nationale.
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Such a lovely library!
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Absolutely
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I’d love to visit the National Library Rebecca, it looks stunning.
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It certainly was! Thanks for stopping by, Marion 🙂
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It’s great that you still managed to explore the city and try some new dishes during the strikes. I think I would’ve been frustrated if I were in your situation, but I wouldn’t have stayed the whole day in my room either.
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Very true! I made the most of it despite the public transport strikes. Ended up discovering some beautiful little quartiers and ate some rich desserts! I’d say it’s how you make the most of it when you have inconveniences like these! Thanks for reading, Bama 🙂
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Interesting original ideas for visiting Paris, I’ll have to check out the Cour Damoye one day.
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Thank you! La Cour Damoye was a lovely little find; I’m glad my friend had recommended it to me. Hope you can explore it yourself soon 🙂
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Ooh, the dessert, Saint-Honoré looks amazing. We’ll be near Paris next week and will have to try this. When we were in Paris in March, there was a huge demonstration at place de la République; it’s a French tradition after all! Lovely post Rebecca.
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Thank you! Stay safe with the strikes in Paris!
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You had me at Saint-Honoré dessert
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Such a delicious treat!
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That speakeasy is so neat! Looks like the inside of someone’s pantry. Those desserts/pastries all look delicious too and I’d love spending time reading in that library!
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Yes, l’Épicerie was such a cool speakeasy; one of my favorites I’ve visited in Paris (and ever)! And you certainly can’t go wrong with beautifully-made French desserts!
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Wow, that was a pretty solid plan B! I’ve never heard of a Saint-Honoré before… what is the round part on top? I’m also impressed by your willingness to try such unique cocktails, as I don’t think I’d have considered any of those had I seen them on a menu.
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The round part on top is a chou, which is a cream puff! I’m always up for a unique cocktail, no matter how wild the concoction is 🙂
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Interesting!
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It’s always good to be able to flex a plan when travelling, you never know for sure what might happen. You’ve managed to do just that and have a full and interesting day despite the strikes 🙂 I’m curious where you got your info about the speakeasies? And that Saint-Honoré looks amazing – I’m drooling!
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I just searched “speakeasies in Paris” and found a few articles on the best ones! I also spoke to the bartenders at some of the speakeasies I went to for recommendations, and they didn’t lead me astray! Lots of cool little bars to check out all over town!
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Thanks – good tip 🙂
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Who needs transport when there are speak-easy joints to visit. Good choice!!!!
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Absolutely! Thanks for reading 🙂
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I love the idea of a speakeasy crawl in another country (but big no to the sriracha cocktail)! How did you find the places?
I’ve only been to 2 speakeasy bars, both in Long Beach. One was lame (now out of business) but I enjoyed the one that required a password, with entrance through a phone booth.
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Some of the speakeasies were fantastic, others were just-okay and didn’t really qualify as speakeasies (i.e. in the backroom of a restaurant). Overall, they’re a lot of fun!
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No transport strike formed against you shall prosper, as we say. You made the best out of what could’ve been a bad situation. Anyway, more and more I’m realizing that the French have truly mastered desserts. French pastries always look and taste so divine. I’m enjoying this trip recap 🙂
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Thanks, Elle! The French are notorious with going on strikes for everything and while it can be an incovenience, it can also be an opportunity to explore more of the city (instead of outside of it)! French desserts are always beautifully-crafted and delicious, that’s for sure!
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Ha, some say you haven’t experienced Paris until you’ve been there during a strike or a protest. Still, you seem to have made good use of your changed itinerary. Particularly on the food and drink front, everything you had looks fantastic. la Cour Damoye looks like one of those great away-from-the-madness hidden streets.
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Absolutely! Having experienced French strikes before (some even worse than this!), I know it’s essential to adapt and rearrange plans to work around them. Turned out well in the end!
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Rebecca you visited there in Paris and we saw there too.This food is delicious 😋 This is an National Library. Anita
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Thanks, Anita! Paris is always a good idea 🙂
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Strikes scuppered us a bit in Italy, so I’m glad you were able to work around them. If nothing else, at least Paris is a great walking city.
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Very true! Strikes are an inconvenience, but they’re also a silver lining for making the most of a city on foot! Good luck with everything in Italy!
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Oh, no. It was several years ago. Just hanging in MN right now. 😃
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That public library is gorgeous and I remember your speakeasy post. Have a nice week!
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Thanks, Tanja! Have a good week, too 🙂
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strikes in Paris???? get out!! Actually its part of the essential Paris experience. If you went and there were no strikes, were you really in Paris??? But you got so much in! very impressive and the entrance to the speak easy…. does it just roll to one side? thats super cool!
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Strikes are a national past time in France, that’s for sure! I lived in the country long enough to have experienced a lot of it, so it didn’t faze me too much during this visit. The speakeasy for l’Épicerie swings open like a door, which was really neat!
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Strikes are never fun but glad it didn’t ruin your day too much!
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Thank you! Although I only had a few hours in Luxembourg due to the strikes, it was still a good time 🙂
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The strike was a bummer. Glad you were able to explore. Sriracha cocktail intrigues me. Was it spicy?
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The strikes weren’t fun, but I still managed to explore Paris! The Sriracha cocktail had a kick, but not too bad!
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I loved the secret entrance to the speakeasy, and all the wonderful desserts, but I was in awe of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France’s Richelieu Palace. It is such an architectural gem in the heart of Paris, especially the Oval Room which can easily be crowned as one of the most beautiful reading rooms in the world. I could easily spend a day there discovering what the reading room has to offer. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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I agree! The BNF Richelieu is stunning: I’ve been to a few other BNFs in Paris, but Richelieu’s really takes the cake. Highly worth seeing if you find yourself in Paris soon!
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Oh my god, it’s so delicious!!
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Oh no… protests and transit strikes. While already common in France, it seems they have become even more so of late. I remember how disruptive they could be when I studied there. But it sounds like you had a great day anyway! Thanks for taking us on this gastronomic journey. Maybe I will check out some of these places next time I’m there!
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Yes, the transport strikes were a bit inconvenient, but thankfully, they didn’t impact me horribly: I was still able to visit the places I wanted to see, as well as get home!! Thanks for reading, and I hope you can return to Paris to see (and eat) more!
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