Wandering El Calafate (November 2022)
I had a wonderful time visiting the majestic Perito Moreno Glacier the day prior whilst in El Calafate– however, it was time for a break. Considering that I had been traveling non-stop since arriving in Argentina a week-and-a-half before, I needed a “day off” to slow down, do laundry, and otherwise recharge for the second half of the trip. Therefore, having a free day in El Calafate (that rhymed!) was much-needed.
I headed into the town center close to 10h00, as I wanted to get some laundry done at one of the shops (my hotel offered laundry service, but it was way too expensive). I popped into one of the small lavanderias where the shop owner spoke absolutely no English and was reluctant to help me at first– however, after I fumbled with Google Translate, she agreed to it and informed me it would be done at 17h00, and to come back then. I dropped off my week’s load and hung out in El Calafate center for the day as I waited for my laundry to be done.
As I had a solid seven hours to kill, I decided to wander around town and see what I could check out. El Calafate is not very large, as most businesses are on the main drag, Avenida del Libertador. The street only goes for maybe 1 kilometer (0.6 miles), so you can cover everything fairly quickly. Much of the town center is catered to tourists, with souvenir shops, tourism offices, and restaurants next door to one another to entice visitors in. I was able to cover Avenida del Libertador within an hour, and that was already taking my time with each and every shop!
My time in El Calafate ended up becoming a *sort-of* foodie adventure, in which I went to a few cafés and restaurants to try out some good, Argentine food. I began at the book-themed café that I had gone to the evening before for a drink– the café was also open in the morning for coffee and breakfast: I opted for a hot chocolate and a medialuna, and it was a sweet way to start off my day.
Lunch was at a well-established parrilla. I headed there as soon as it opened at noon, and I was ready to order the local specialty: the Patagonian lamb. Now, when it comes to portions in Argentina, they don’t skimp! Even though I ordered a plate for one person, it was still a hefty amount! Unfortunately, I was able to finish maybe 70% of the whole platter, but still a delicious and well-prepared dish. The lamb was crispy, fatty, and absolutely tender, and I still dream about that meal to this day.
Just before I was to pick up my laundry, I stopped by a little dessert shop which specialized exclusively in churros. As Argentina also has a notable Spanish-immigrant population, items like churros have made their way into Argentine cuisine. This particular shop had limited store hours, as it is only open 16h00-19h00; I went in as soon as it opened, and I ordered two churros: lemon-ginger and Calafate berry. I found Argentine churros to be a thinner version of the Mexican kind, as well as have unique fillings inside. The churros were super sweet and super yummy and, paired with a hot tea, made for the perfect afternoon snack.
Calafate berry and lemon-ginger churros with tea
I returned close to 17h00 to collect my now-clean laundry: total came out to 1000 Argentine pesos, or $5 USD. The shop owner seemed less cantankerous and actually smiled when I said “gracias.” With my clothes cleaned and my stomach full from a day of eating, I headed all the way back to my hotel on foot– it was super windy, to the point it was a struggle (and honestly, I should have just waited for the next hotel shuttle from the city center), but I eventually made it back in the late afternoon and rested for the remainder of the day.
Overall, it was a chill day exploring El Calafate and recovering somewhat from the hectic traveling during my first week or so in Argentina. I also got my laundry done and ate a lot of good food, so I can’t complain! It was a day to refuel and prepare myself for the last leg of the trip, which would take me across the country back to where I started from…stay tuned!
— Rebecca
The food photos are making me hungry! The book-themed stairs are so cute, too. Thank you for sharing, Rebecca! I appreciate you and your incredible blog. Enjoy the Thanksgiving holiday!
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It was incredible food all around in El Calafate! Have a wonderful upcoming holiday season!
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That Patagonian lamb looks delicious! It’s good that they’re generous with the portion. You know how in Asia we often ask for takeaway when we can’t finish the food we order at a restaurant. Is that also a thing in Argentina?
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I’m sure it’s a thing in Argentina, too. But given I was on the road and it would’ve been inconvenient to bring leftovers with me, I did my best to eat as much as I could!
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I absolutely adore the stairs in that book cafe. The food looks and sounds heavenly; I’d love to try those flavoured churros and that lamb.
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The café was very picturesque, even though it was more for the tourist’s aesthetic (i.e. Instagrammable). The churros were a lovely discovery, and I’m glad I got to have them while in town!
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Despite the big portion, the lamb looks amazing! Love the book spines along the stairs. Interesting churro flavours! I admired the plate it came on for longer than needed.
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True! The churros were plated beautifully, but gone within seconds! A very fulfilling day of food in El Calafate!
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Love the book themed stairs; very creative. And the food all looks fabulous!
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The book-themed stairs to the café was a highlight of El Calafate. As well as all of the food! Thanks for reading 😊
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like the book cafe!
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It was great! Thanks, Tanja. 🙂
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It’s always a good idea to have a couple of ‘chill’ days during a trip, I think you appreciate the more active days all the more. I love the stairs to the book-themed café, and all the food sounds and looks delicious 🙂
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Yes, I needed that chill day not just to do laundry, but also to rest and take it easy. Thanks for reading!
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El Calafate sounds like a small, vibrant town filled with tasty treats. I love the idea of a book-themed cafe. Years ago, I often wanted to do everything at a destination, but that would usually wear me out to the point of being drained and operating on autopilot. Now a few years older and wiser, I try to take a day off and catch up on sleep or go for a relaxing stroll. I know it might sound silly, but that one day of rest can completely recharge my batteries and the next day, I usually wake up feeling refreshed and ready to fully engage with the rest of the trip. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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I absolutely agree, Aiva! Having a free day to catch up on laundry and just to relax was much needed. And of course, can’t forget all of that good food!
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Love that book cafe and oh my word, the food looks incredible. Those churros have me drooling 🙂
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Those churros were yummy! All the better that I was able to get them, as the churreria had limited hours.
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Thanks for sharing this idea in Argentina but we visited too. Your food is so delicious 😋. Anita
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Glad you enjoyed the post and the memories it brought!
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Thanks ❤️
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The food look delicious and what a generous serving of the lamb dish! Glad your rest day turned out to be a foodie adventure. It’s always great to recharge in between travels.
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The Patagonian lamb was so good, one of the best things I ate in Argentina! It was certainly a food-filled, but restful day!
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A delicious and relaxing day! Those churros especially caught my eye. It is nice to take a break and get organized on your trip, otherwise you could easily get burned out. I am always amazed how much hotels charge for laundry!
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The churros were delicious; all the better that the churreria was open during my time there (as it has limited hours)! Unless I have little choice, I avoid using the hotel’s laundry service and instead go to laundromats for much cheaper; sometimes I even handwash!
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Churros, inexpensive laundry service, a cute town, time to chill, and an adorable book-themed stairway. Sounds like a great day!
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It certainly was! Thanks for reading. 😊
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Sounds like it was a nice day! Argentina has been on my travel radar but not made its way up the list quite yet. Excited to read about your time there.
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Argentina had been on my bucket list for a long time, and I was finally happy to go! More to come soon. 🙂
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Traveling and eating great food is always a treat, thanks for the great post. Looking forward to another one of your adventures!
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Thanks for reading!
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That book themed cafe seems amazing
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i really loved the quaintness
of el chalten after being in el calafate!
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I didn’t make it to El Chaltén, but I’ve heard it’s gorgeous! Mount Fitz Roy is also the inspiration for the Patagonia label!
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Great way to kill time! How was your hotel?
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The hotel was pretty nice, but nothing that stood out too much. It was also a bit far from the city center, so if you want easier access to bars, restaurants, and shopping, it’s better to find accommodation in town.
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The food looks great! I do have a sweet tooth and absolutely love churros, but that lamb looks especially delicious, I would be ordering that for sure. On longer trips these kinds of days of doing not much, relaxing and dealing with some logistics, are essential.
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I really needed that day off to recharge before returning to travel. While it’d be ideal to go non-stop, it’s realistically not feasible, as it leads to exhaustion and burn-out. That said, it was good to rest in El Calafate, get laundry done, and enjoy good food in the process!
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Was that cafe the Librobar? I saw it in your opening photo and thought – I would spend some time there! (I’m a bookie) Then I saw the steps and thought it might be the same place.
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Yes! It’s the Librobar. You’ve been there before? It’s a cute café with a quaint theme, for all bibliophiles!
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No I haven’t been there, but I saw it in your first picture and it looks like someplace I would want to visit!
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looks like a cute little town! Thanks for sharing Rebecca!
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El Calafate was a charming town. Thanks for reading, Andy!
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