Lost in LA: Chinatown

Chinatown, Los Angeles (December 2025)

(In honor of the start of Lunar New Year today, I wanted to share with you a piece of Chinese-American history in my hometown of Los Angeles. Enjoy!)

No matter where you travel in the world, you are bound to come across a Chinatown neighborhood. From San Francisco’s (the oldest in North America) to Lima’s Barrio Chino, there are Chinatowns all over that are hubs for Chinese habitants– locals and immigrants alike– to live and work in. Chinatowns are tight-knit communities, and they also attract visitors to eat, sightsee, and overall appreciate Chinese culture overseas.

Chinatown in Los Angeles is no exception. Located in the northern portion of downtown Los Angeles (next to Dodger Stadium), it is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, dating back to the 1860s with the settlement of Chinese railroad workers. Over the next few decades and into the 20th century, the neighborhood grew with the railroad workers bringing their families over, eventually giving rise to first, second, even third generation Chinese-Americans, who today call Los Angeles their home.

It is important to note that there have been two Chinatowns in history, with “Old Chinatown” existing from the 1860s until 1933. The original settlement was centered around present-day Union Station, with 15 streets and alleys housing around 200 buildings. Old Chinatown reached its peak between 1890 and 1910 with a sizable population of 3,000 and a thriving community with an opera theater, several temples, and even its own newspaper.

Although Old Chinatown flourished, it also came with its problems. Due to anti-immigration laws (e.g. Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, Alien Land Laws of 1913), locals were prohibited from citizenship and property ownership, which made it difficult to expand the neighborhood. The Chinese Massacre of 1871 was also devastating, as 19 Chinese men were lynched by Angelenos in an act of racial violence. In addition, the growth of opium dens and other illegal activities tarnished the neighborhood’s reputation– as a result, Old Chinatown started to wane by the 1920s and 1930s.

Old Chinatown came to an abrupt end in 1933, when the city council evicted all of the residents for the construction of Union Station. Businesses closed, and homes were demolished, and the evictees were not given a place to relocate. Ultimately, a “New Chinatown” was established in 1938 just north of Union Station, thanks to community leaders like Peter Soo Hoo, Sr and, surprisingly, Hollywood. In fact, film set designers built many of the “exotic” architecture not only for movie sets, but also as a tourist attraction to visitors who wanted a taste into Far East culture. A bit problematic these days, but such development did contribute to a Chinatown Renaissance.

Entering Chinatown through its Gateway Monument

Unfortunately, New Chinatown has seen a decline since 2000, as many residents left for San Gabriel Valley (considered today’s “real” Chinatown), settling in cities like Monterey Park. The few residents who remain are low-income and aging, and even the buildings reflect the old-school atmosphere of the neighborhood– it feels as if you are stepping back into history, yet still grounded in present day with modern high-rises and skyscrapers in the backdrop of Downtown.

Major changes are reshaping Chinatown today, with the rise of gentrification in the neighborhood as a younger crowd are moving in due to current, affordable housing. Currently in 2026, the area is in the middle of transition, with the older population still operating grocery stores, dim sum restaurants, and convenience shops selling items like herbal medicine, kitchen supplies, and electronics at great bargains, while newer inhabitants are creating trendy cafés and art exhibits in between them all.

Outdoor shopping on N Broadway

Much of Chinatown’s activity is centered on North Broadway, with many restaurants and businesses operating on this stretch in town. It is easily walkable, and the street passes through many plazas with shopping and dining, including the historic alleyways like Gin Ling Way that have bakeries and famous restaurants like Hop Louie (which unfortunately closed in 2016).

Yang Chow restaurant, an institution since 1977 (still open as of 2026)

Yang Chow’s famous slippery shrimp with green beans

Hop Louie restaurant (RIP)

Just a few blocks off of N Broadway, one can also visit the Thien Hau Temple, a major temple for the Chinese-Vietnamese population in the area. Hours are limited, but it is a beautiful structure to pop in for a look, as well as to pay respect to the sea goddess Mazu.

Thien Hau Temple

Inside the temple

Although being Chinese Angeleno myself, I have only been to Chinatown a small handful of times throughout my life; I did not grow up close to it, so rarely did I head to that part of the city. Walking through the neighborhood, it is fairly empty and quiet, with mostly elderly folks (mostly Cantonese-speaking) walking around and socializing with each other. A bit sad from its once-thriving days in the early 20th century, but it still retains its charm and has since become a historic neighborhood to explore.

Statue of Bruce Lee

We will have to see where Chinatown goes in the next decade or so. As previously mentioned, it is in the middle of transition and it is possible that, due to gentrification, the neighborhood will be but a remnant of Los Angeles history. It is all uncertain, but as it is stated in the eponymous 1974 film:

“Forget it, Jake, it’s Chinatown.”

Thanks for reading, and have a great day!

— Rebecca