20241007_120139Columbia Icefields Parkway (October 2024)

While Banff National Park is wildly-popular with tourists around the world, many visitors also choose to add Jasper National Park to the itinerary while checking out this part of Canada. Jasper offers a more rustic and off-the-road experience in nature compared to Banff, including glaciers of the Columbia Icefield. My friend “A” and I only dipped our toes into Jasper while visiting last October, but regardless, it was a worthwhile time.

At over 11,000 squared kilometers (4200 squared miles), Jasper is the largest national park in Alberta’s Rocky Mountains. It was first settled by the First Nations around 8000-7000 BCE, most notably by the Nakoda and Cree people. The First Nations came into contact with white settlers in the 18th to 19th centuries, and soon enough, the Canadian government established Jasper as a national park in 1907, serving as an alpine getaway like Banff for tourists.

Although Jasper is a national park, it’s interesting (and sad) to note that it was also used as internment and forced labor camps during much of WWI and WWII. During the First World War, the Canadian government forced “enemy aliens” of German, Ukrainian, and Ottoman origins to Jasper, as means of containing and employing them as laborers for roads in and out of the national park. The Second Word War saw 300 Japanese-Canadians sent to internment camps in the area, also for infrastructural labor. Not proud moments in Canadian history, but important ones to remember and (hopefully) not repeat.

Normally, it’s ideal to spend several days to a week visiting Jasper National Park, as it is huge and covers so much of the Rocky Mountains in Canada. However, “A” and I were short on time and had one full day to see Jasper. We booked a day tour that would show us some of the highlights of the national park. While we wouldn’t venture too north, we would still get a taste of the beautiful area.

“A” and I woke up early on our second day in Banff, heading out to our pick-up location in downtown to meet our tour van at 7h40. Our driver-guide greeted us, and we, along with ten other passengers, clamored aboard the small, but comfortable van. Soon enough, we were on our way out of Banff and onwards to Jasper National Park– it was about a two to three-hour drive over 187 kilometers (116 miles) north, so we settled in and enjoyed the scenery that passed us by.

The drive to Jasper was fairly long, but our driver-guide made it more manageable by taking a few stops along the way, with our first pause being at the reflective Bow Lake (still in Banff). The lake was large and ever-so-clear, and we could see glaciers peeking out the mountains from afar. The morning glow made everything look so magical, and given we were visiting between fall and winter, it was starting to get cold enough that parts of the lake were freezing over!

20241007_094418Bow Lake

20241007_094543Reflections on the water

After a couple more pit-stops in Banff (including a quick packed-lunch break), we soon entered Jasper National Park via the Columbia Icefields Parkway, a 230-kilometer (140-mile) stretch that weaves through some of the most-picturesque parts of the Rocky Mountains. From the Icefields Parkway, one can evidently get glimpses of the looming glaciers in the distance, including Athabasca, one of the most-famous.

20241007_120139Views from Parker Ridge

Besides seeing gorgeous landscape, we also saw parts of Jasper which, unfortunately, had been badly burned by forest fires earlier that summer– parts of the land were barren and dry, with remnants of trees reduced to nothing but stumps. A sad sight to see, but nevertheless a reminder of Nature and its unpredictable ways (as well as human interference).

Around 13h00, we reached Jasper’s visitor center, where our driver-guide dropped us off for separate tours to places like the Athabasca Glacier and the Columbia Icefield Skywalk– our guide would pick us up afterwards to take us back to Banff. That said, “A” and I descended the tour van and got onto Ice Explorer buses, which were enormous vehicles designed for driving on glacial terrain. With 50 other passengers, we slowly climbed up and onto the sheet of ice which makes up the Athabasca Glacier and soon enough made it to a part of the glacier where we could descend and walk on it.

We were given 45 minutes to be outside and walk on the glacier– to be honest, it was so windy and bitterly cold that “A” and I only spent five minutes outdoors, to walk (*erm slip) on the ice and take photos before we called it quits and returned inside the vehicle for warmth. In fact, many passengers didn’t stay out too long, as the weather outside was rough. We’d paid $200 USD ($274 CAD) per person for this tour, but honestly, we couldn’t enjoy it!

20241007_131723Athabasca Glacier

Any case, we returned to the visitor center, and “A” and I hopped on the next shuttle out to the Columbia Icefield Skywalk, a glass bridge overlooking the Sunwapta Valley. It was a 10-minute ride over to the drop-off point, which was about a kilometer away from the actual bridge itself. Nevertheless, we took the easy stroll over, stopping every once in a while to read the many placards on geology and wildlife in the open-air museum. Honestly, the Skywalk was underwhelming, as it was quite small and after a loop (or two) around it, that was all there was to it. “A” and I spent maybe 15 to 20 minutes there before we caught the next shuttle back to the visitor center.

20241007_143309On the Skywalk

Our driver-guide picked us up around 15h30– that concluded our brief time in Jasper National Park, and it was a matter of making the two to three-hour drive back to Banff. Just before reaching town, we stopped at the turquoise blue Peyto Lake, which from a certain angle looks like the silhouette of a wolf. Very gorgeous, and soon enough, we returned to Banff around 17h00, tired but happy.

20241007_165012Peyto Lake

As we were in town, “A” and I grabbed some dinner before heading back to our hotel. We got a large poutine to share, which was piping hot, savory, and absolutely filling– I’ve had poutine before in the US (even France), but it was actually my first time having it in Canada, the country of origin! Afterwards, we got a beavertail for dessert, which is like frybread that resembles a beaver’s tail: it was dusted with cinnamon sugar, and it’s apparently traditional to eat it with a squeeze of lemon. Pretty tasty, although it was heavy and not something I could have every day!

20241007_185754Poutine for dinner

20241007_192801(1)Beavertail

It was a matter of returning to our hotel by 20h00, in order to rest after a long day traveling and sightseeing another national park in Canada. Stay tuned for my next (and last) post on Banff National Park! 🙂

— Rebecca

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Published by Rebecca

Blogger, world traveler, poet, foodie, part-time penguin. Welcome!

52 thoughts on “Destination: Jasper National Park, Canada”

  2. Although there is much more to see in Jasper, I understand your decision to seize the opportunity to get a first impression. I passed by the glacier with its large machines, but I didn’t stop, heading further north, so I appreciate seeing this part in your photos.

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    1. Given that my friend and I had limited time for our trip, I’m glad we were able to squeeze in a day trip to Jasper! I’d love to head more north some day to see more of the national park’s beauty!

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  4. Some years ago my son and I took the train across Canada. It went through Jasper National Park and, although we didn’t get out much, it was gorgeous through the train windows. You had good weather for some beautiful photos.

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    1. Even if you only passed through Jasper, you still saw its beauty! We were lucky to have visited during the fall season, as it was absolutely gorgeous. To be fair, it’s stunning at any time of the year!

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  6. Gorgeous photos! My husband and I were just talking we would like to go to Western Canada next as we’ve been to Eastern Canada twice – I just blogged our most recent trip last night!~ Your photos are pulling me out west!!! Appreciate your comments about the glacier, we both can’t do slippy ice at all, so that will be a pass for us!

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    1. Definitely go! Western Canada is a lovely part of the country. I’ve only visited Eastern Canada once years ago, so I think I’m overdue for a trip back! Hope to do so in the next few years. Thanks for reading!

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    1. Jasper is truly magical, and I’m glad I was able to squeeze a visit in! The Athabasca Glacier was beyond freezing, but at least I got to see and step on it! Definitely a one-and-done deal, though 😅

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  8. That shot of Bow Lake is stunning, as well as that of Peyto Lake. Despite your limited time in Jasper National Park, you seem to be able to check out some of its most interesting parts.

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  11. Beautiful views, but like you– I wouldn’t be able to stay outside in that cold for long either! I want to see a glacier one day, but I love warm weather so I’m not sure how that’ll work, ha! Thanks for sharing! I liked the beavertail with Nutella, but it’s definitely a heavy dessert.

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    1. I consider myself fairly capable of cold weather, but Athabasca Glacier was beyond freezing! All the same, it was a bucket list dream come true standing on it. Beavertails are definitely an indulgence, and Nutella on it sounds divine! Thanks for reading, Elle 🙂

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  13. I know this area well, we got married at Bow Lake! Next time, rent a car, then you can see the non-touristed parts of Jasper. The two you visited are probably the most overrated, underdelivered sites in the park. Maggie

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    1. How romantic! Yes, given the time constraints, we could only see the main parts of Jasper; I hope to return some day and explore more! Thanks for your suggestion 🙂

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    1. The tours were just-okay, but I agree with you that the scenery was incredible! It was the drive through the Columbia Icefields to see the lakes– Bow and Peyto– which were the highlights of the day!

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    1. It was cold in Jasper, but as we’d gone in October, I can’t imagine it getting any more freezing in the winter! The beavertail was a nice snack to try, but I agree with you that it’s a once-in-a-while treat!

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  21. Wow, the scenery along the way is truly stunning, dear Rebecca, especially the Peyto Lake with its wolf-head shape, and scenic views of the Canadian Rockies. Makes me want to return to Canada once more. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

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  24. Your photos of Jasper National Park are stunning. And you got to see the blue turquoise blue Peyto Lake! It’s the one of those places that looks so perfect on social media – and from your photo and what you experienced it really looks so good 😄 I didn’t realise it resembled a silhouette of a wolf until you pointed it out. Sorry to hear that the glacier tour and walk was underwhelming. Sometimes there’s no guess what weather and outside elements you will get. I guess it’s all part of experience of traveling – not every moment will be ‘wow’. Some moments are just grateful to be there and time to move along. The beavertail dessert looks like a whole meal in itself! 🙂

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    1. Thank you, Mabel! Peyto Lake was a highlight; I really wanted to visit it, and I’m glad our tour guide stopped there to give us a chance to see it. Honestly, the glacier tour was a letdown– however, the highlights were the lakes (Bow and Peyto) and the scenic drive along the Columbia Icefields. The tour wasn’t a complete bust, in that sense!

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  25. Ahhh, you have made me feel better about skipping that Ice Explorer tour and the Skywalk… not that it really helps you! I’m sorry it was a letdown. However the rest of the day looks fantastic! I’m SO glad you got to see Peyto Lake, I think that’s one of my favourite views on earth. And the whole drive is just phenomenal so the whole day is an attraction in itself, really!

    That fire around Jasper was awful; it wrecked something like a third of the actual town of Jasper. Really heartbreaking.

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    1. I think you made the right choice of skipping out on the glacier tour and Skywalk! Honestly, they were the most-underwhelming part of our day. The lakes (Bow and Peyto) and driving through Columbia Icefields were the highlights, fortunately!

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