20221117_115937Ushuaia port (November 2022)

The Beagle Channel is a strait that borders two countries– Argentina and Chile– at their southernmost border. At 240 kilometers/150 miles long, it cuts through the Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Ocean, a way to connect one part of the hemisphere to the other. I had the opportunity to sail along this narrow corridor of water during my stay in Ushuaia, to discover this part of the world so isolated from the rest.

I checked out early from the hotel after the second night, and I stored my belongings with the hotel staff, as I wouldn’t be leaving Ushuaia right away. Instead, I had a Beagle Channel cruise waiting for me at the port, so I caught the complimentary hotel shuttle first thing at 8h00 to the city center (7 kilometers/4.3 miles away), where I would check in for the half-day cruise.

20221117_085157Ushuaia: End of the World

Upon reaching the center, I reported to the tourism agency I’d been informed to to pick up my tickets for the cruise. However, the receptionist couldn’t find my booking and didn’t know much about the cruise, and he directed me to the cruise companies by the port to buy the tickets. I had the impression that my tour package had booked the cruise for me, so I was very confused– all the same, I headed to the port where I ended up paying 7000-8000 pesos ($35-40 USD) for a two-and-a-half-hour cruise along the Beagle Channel.

It was raining while I was in town getting the tickets, but thankfully, the skies cleared up as soon as the boat set sail at 9h30. The ride was very comfortable and cozy, as I ordered a tea as we cruised along the strait– at one point, we straddled the border between Argentina and Chile! It was surreal to see Ushuaia (Argentina) on one side of the boat, and to see the snow-capped Chilean mountain range on the other.

20221117_094322Cruising the Beagle Channel

Our first stop was at a rocky island full of wildlife; we paused to admire the sea lions and cormorants (similar-looking to, but not actually penguins) living in harmony on the same rock. Visitors (like myself) took plenty of photos outside on the boat, and it was great we got to see the animals up-close.

20221117_095320So many sea lions and cormorants!

Next was a pause to check out Les Éclaireurs lighthouse. Translated to mean “the scouts” in French, this 11-meter (36 feet) candy-striped lighthouse was first established in 1920, and to this day remains operable as the guard and guiding light to Ushuaia by sea. It’s nicknamed “the lighthouse at the end of the world,” and when captured against the backdrop of the dramatic, snowy mountains, it’s no wonder it’s considered the “end of the world!”

20221117_102543Les Éclaireurs lighthouse!

Our final stop was at one of the islands of Tierra del Fuego. We docked the boat and had about 20 minutes to check out the island, mostly just to the panorama deck where we got sweeping views of the entire region. From the deck, I could see Ushuaia in the distance, as well as the sweeping mountain range in Chile, and the deep, milky-blue waters all around us. Certainly felt as if I was on an entirely different planet!

20221117_112033Views on the island

That concluded the cruise, and we docked back in Ushuaia close to noon. I had an hour-and-a-half before I had to return to the hotel, so I wandered the city center, pausing to grab some empanadas and alfajores for lunch and checking out a cute passageway that sold artisanal souvenirs. After purchasing a few for family and loved ones back home, I caught the next hotel shuttle at 13h30 back to the hotel.

20221117_130845Cute artisan passageway

It was during my ride back that I had time to rest and check my Whatsapp messages. To my surprise, I’d received a flood of messages from my tour company asking if I was all right and where I was– apparently, the actual boat company I was supposed to go with had been waiting for me, but I never showed up! Not only did I keep them waiting, but I also spent unnecessary money with another company! To be fair, I’d been confused due to miscommunication about the meeting point, but I let it slide– I still had a good time!

I returned to the hotel where I got my belongings and soon thereafter caught my ride to the airport, thus leaving Ushuaia. It was a brief, but pleasant time in the southernmost point of Argentina, as I got to experience more of the wild beauty of Patagonia through hikes, cruises, and everything in between. I would love to return just to stay in that hotel again, as it was probably the best one I’ve ever stayed in during my trips thus far.

Thanks for reading, and more Argentina adventures coming soon!

— Rebecca

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Published by Rebecca

Blogger, world traveler, poet, foodie, part-time penguin. Welcome!

61 thoughts on “Destination: Ushuaia, Argentina (Cruising the Beagle Channel– PART 2)”

  1. Your photos are incredible. What a unique experience to see the “border” between two oceans. I love lighthouses (especially ones with French names!) 😉 and the candy-striped one in Ushuaia does not disappoint. I’ve enjoyed learning more about the “end of the world” – thank you for sharing!

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    1. Thanks, Darlene! This natural border between Argentina and Chile was so surreal to go along, and the Beagle Channel cruise was the perfect way to end my time in Ushuaia! More adventures in Argentina are coming soon!

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  7. Oh no! I’m sorry to hear about the ticket confusion. I was surprised when you said the ride was comfortable and cozy. I thought any cruise in this far corner of the world would always include choppy waters and nausea-inducing experience. But maybe it was because the one you took went around the protected part of the channel, which probably explains the seemingly calm sea (?).

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  8. It’s true that the Eclaireurs lighthouse is often mistaken for the End of the World lighthouse, which does exist, but much further out in the Atlantic. One of Jules Verne’s novels takes place on this isolated island. The old End of the World lighthouse has been moved to the courtyard of the Ushuaia jail/museum. Ushuaia is a great place to explore, and one that will leave fond memories.

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    1. So cool! Even though the lighthouse I saw may not be the furthest out there, it was still a pleasure seeing it along the Beagle Channel. Ushuaia is a place of extremes, but beautiful nonetheless!

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  13. Oh no! Well, at least the extra cost wasn’t exorbitant. I’ve booked several things through my Go City Sydney card and then got a message from the company saying there was a technical difficulty and now they’re having to reissue new cards to everyone. They promise me they’ll contact my bookings and tell them my new card number, but I’m nervous it’s going to be all messed up and that I’ll be reporting something like what you just went through (“I don’t see your reservation, ma’am.”). Nevertheless, the boat tour looks amazing. Glad you didn’t miss it.

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  14. Glad the tour ended up working out! I always get nervous I’ll end up in the wrong spot or miss tours. I guess it all made sense why they didn’t see your booking. That tour looks incredible, I especially love the penguins and the lighthouse. One day I’d love to visit the end of the world!

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    1. Me too! That’s why I show up extra early to make sure I don’t miss it. Although in this case, it still happened…I still went on the cruise in the end, and it was definitely worth it! Hope you make it over to Ushuaia some day. 🙂

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  15. It’s so amazing to see such tall, snow capped mountains rising out of the ocean! Glad the tour booking snafu didn’t cause too much hassle and you were still able to go on this cruise.

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  17. A shame about the mix-up over the booked tour but I’m glad you got to see the Beagle Channel 🙂 We did a similar cruise but didn’t get to land anywhere – the views on that island look stunning!

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    1. The mix-up was a bit annoying, but thankfully, it worked out in the end! We only landed on the big island in Tierra del Fuego for about 20 minutes for photos and views of Ushuaia in the distance. It was a fun day!

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  23. Thanks for sharing your experience at the End of the world! The cruise looks so scenic (worth any mishap I guess).
    Ushuaia is definitely a must-see destination for me, glad you ended up seeing the border and its stunning landscapes.

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  26. The article beautifully unfolds the Beagle Channel cruise in Ushuaia, combining vivid descriptions with captivating visuals. The author skillfully navigates unexpected challenges, turning confusion into adventure. The personal touch, historical context, and stunning photographs create a compelling narrative that immerses readers in the remote charm of Patagonia. The writer’s ability to find joy amidst uncertainties is admirable, fostering a relatable and enjoyable experience. The seamless blend of anecdotes and insights forms an engaging account, leaving readers eager for more Argentine adventures. Cheers to the author for sharing this delightful journey and capturing the allure of exploration in Patagonia!

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      1. You’re welcome! It’s always a pleasure to read and engage with thoughtful content. If you have any more to share or if there’s a particular topic you’d like to discuss, feel free to let me know. Looking forward to more enriching exchanges! 😊

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  27. unfortunately mix ups like this occur and it can be hard to work out just what happened. but you got a cruise anyways if you paid twice, you wont remember that years down the track you’ll remember the views of this incredible part of the world!

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