20230320_113001Tower Bridge views (March 2023)

When it comes to traveling, some of us might not have the luxury of spending many days in one place. Whether it’s due to rushed planning or limited vacation time off from work, it can be hectic trying to research and cram in as much as possible into sightseeing a city or country. In the end, it might be exhausting, and it perhaps could detract you from enjoying your adventure away from home.

Having been inspired by the many Internet articles (one of the most-famous including the New York Times’ “36 Hours in…” segment) that showcase ideal itineraries in a set destination, I’d thought that I would also start a similar series on this blog to offer some of my own suggestions of things to do, see, and eat in well-renown cities in the world.

What makes my series different from the others online would be the fact that I’m by no means a professional traveler (e.g. no sponsors, all-paid resorts, etc.), and that what I will suggest are based on my own personal experiences having visited a certain place at least twice, in order to ensure a more-comprehensive outlook on the city itself.

Many online articles in the same vein also tend to cater towards mid-to-upper class travelers who can actually afford hotels and fine-dining restaurants, which I assume many people in their 20’s, even 30’s, can’t have. That’s why I’m catering this series to the budget-friendly, backpack-traveler nomad who doesn’t mind staying in hostels, taking overnight buses, or eating at hole-in-the-wall joints while still getting a fulfilling experience in traveling. This one’s for you, folks! 

PS Check out more of my “72-Hour” posts here!

72 Hours in London: Things to See and Do

London needs no introduction: with a population of 9 million (and over 14 million in its metropolitan area), the British capital is a flurry of international culture all throughout its multiple boroughs, all the while remaining embedded in its proud and rich English history. Millions of tourists flock over every year to experience a bit of everything that has to do with English culture: afternoon tea, double decker buses, Buckingham Palace and, of course, the British royal family. There’s so much to do in London that it would take years (even a lifetime) to experience it all.

I have visited London on two separate occasions: my first time was in winter 2015 during my first year of teaching in France, and my second time was in spring 2023. My first visit had been a whirlwind of barely two-and-a-half days (technically, I was in for five days, but many day trips ate into my time in town) and, with the euro-pound exchange rate being abysmal, the winter sun setting too early, and packing too many sites in to even see them all, I ended up having a rather disappointing first visit to London.

However, my second time in London was a lot better: I had four full days in town (although I was in for a week to do day trips, again), the sun set later in spring, and the dollar-pound ratio was in my favor. Plus, I had company, as I spent part of my visit with my friend who lives there, and I really got to explore the city in depth. I was able to slow down and check out the sites without rushing, all the while enjoying and appreciating what London had to offer.

London is a large city: it’s loud, it’s crowded, and it can be intimidating for a first-timer. Besides navigating the Tube (which can be confusing at first), there’s also the struggle of driving on the left side (coming from a right-side nation like myself) and keeping your wits about you for safety. It’s overwhelming, but once you get past it all, London is so rich and diverse in things to see, do, and especially to eat– from Indian to Nigerian to old-fashioned British food, the variety of cuisines in the city is to die for.

72 hours isn’t nearly enough to see all of London, but it’s a solid introduction to the city. Personally, I would extend it to at least a four-day stay, but for those on a time crunch, you do what you have to do…luckily, a majority of sites are situated along or within a kilometer of the Thames River, so you won’t have to go too far to get the gist of them all. That said, here’s a comprehensive itinerary of what to see and do in London in 72 hours. Cheers!

Day 1 (Buckingham Palace, Kensington/Chelsea, and Notting Hill)

We’re starting off with a bang! It’s bright and early (i.e. 9h00) to grab a coffee and traditional sausage roll at Greggs, a popular bakery chain, for breakfast before heading straight to the Buckingham Palace to get a good spot for the Changing of the Guards. The tradition happens every other day and starts at 11h00, but it helps to arrive at least an hour before to beat the crowds. Depending where you’re coming from, you might even pass by Big Ben and the House of Parliament (even Westminster Abbey) for a quick photo opp.

20230319_151916House of Parliament and Big Ben

The Changing of the Guards lasts about 45 minutes to an hour, and then it’s time to head west, for a stroll through Hyde Park and the Kensington Gardens, or a pop into the upscale Harrods for some window shopping. Get yourself a cheeky Nando’s (an Mozambique-inspired restaurant chain known for its grilled chicken) for lunch before mews hunting. Mews were historically horse stables that have since been converted to homes, and many are concentrated in the Kensington and Chelsea boroughs. Many are colorful and cute to walk through, especially along the cobblestone roads. From Kynance Mews to Osten Mews (my favorite), there are many within a block of each other to keep you busy for part of the afternoon.

20230320_123715Osten Mews

Head up to Notting Hill, made famous by the eponymous 90’s film starring Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts. Lots of colorful rows of houses along Portobello Road to enjoy, along with some film memorabilia. This district in the Kensington area is touristy, but it also has a community feel with a farmer’s market every Saturday and a small, but thriving nightlife with its good handful of pubs for a pint (or two), along with some hearty grub, including distinctive British eats like bangers and mash, steak and ale pie (my personal favorite), and even fish and chips. Enjoy the convivial atmosphere in the pub culture before choosing a nightclub or returning to your accommodation for the night.

20230317_112130Portobello Road in Notting Hill

Day 2 (City of London, Borough Market, and views of London)

Start off with a quick breakfast takeaway at Costa Coffee (London-based coffee chain) before going early to enter St. Paul’s Cathedral. Admission fee is steep at £23 (2023 prices), but not only does it cover the nave and crypt, but also views to the top, where you can get extensive views of London along the Thames, especially the London Eye.

20230320_105704St. Paul’s Cathedral

20230320_101457Views from the top

It’s then a stroll east along the Thames, along which you can see the Tate Modern (a pop in if you like museums), the Shakespeare Globe, London Bridge (not that impressive), and views of the Financial District skyscrapers in the background, its modernity a contrast to the historic buildings and sites elsewhere in the city. You’ll soon reach the famous Tower Bridge and Tower of London, the latter which you can choose to enter to see the Crown Jewels– otherwise, walking a bit past that to St. Katharine Docks Marina offers a picturesque and tranquil respite from the bustle in the area.

20230320_113607On Tower Bridge

Cross the Tower Bridge and over to Borough Market, a historic covered market that dates back to the 12th century. It’s lunchtime, and there are countless of food stalls to choose from: popular ones include the Bomba paella, wild mushroom risotto, loaded ciabatta sandwiches, and Thai street food. My personal favorite is the steak and ale pie at Pieminster, which I HIGHLY recommend. Besides food, there are also wine and cider tasting bars, loose-leaf British tea shops, and otherwise fresh produce to purchase. You could easily spend the whole day here shopping and eating to your heart’s desire!

20230319_133559Steak and ale pie at Borough Market

Spend the late afternoon/early evening with tickets to either The Shard (£32 admission) or Sky Garden (free, but requires timed tickets), two of the most-popular high rises near the Tower Bridge for a drink and/or fancy dinner at the top with views. Watch as the sky melts from sunset orange to night-time black over a couple of hours and enjoy a romantic view of the city.

Day 3 (Regent’s Park, Marylebone, Soho, afternoon tea, and Chinatown)

Your last day in London is an eclectic blend of gimmicky, tourist attractions and good eats concentrated in the Westminster and Camden boroughs of London. Begin your day with an early-morning stroll in Regent’s Park before a brief off-shoot for a photo opp at the famous Abbey Road crossing, then a quick popover to the Sherlock Holmes Museum at 221B Baker Street. There’s also a Madame Tussaud’s close by, if wax museums are your thing, but otherwise continue on…

Head down into Marylebone High Street, known for its bustle of restaurants and shopping, including the famous Daunt bookstore. Criss-cross through the bustling maze of famous roads such as Oxford Street, Bond Street, and Carnaby Street, and have a pop in at Liberty, a high-end department store housed inside a historic 19th century multi-story wooden building. Have yourself some delicious and affordable eats in Chinatown, including takeaway buns, steamed rice rolls, and other small dishes for a light lunch or snack.

20230318_154144Chinatown

20230318_161322Buns in Chinatown

Wander through the busy Piccadilly Circus, Leicester Square, and Trafalgar Squares before enjoying an afternoon tea at the hundreds of tea rooms in the borough: whether you choose to go for the three-tiered experience or a more-modest cream tea, this will satisfy your quintessential British tea experience. It’s then a matter of a quick glance at the colorful Neal’s Yard and Seven Dials Market prior to visiting the beautiful Covent Garden. You may choose to have a drink here and then having dinner at the world-famous Dishoom, which serves Indian-inspired meals. You’re then free to either enjoy more of the pub culture or head back to your accommodation to rest up, especially if you need to be up early to head home!

20230317_123835Cream tea

20230317_135422Neal’s Yard

20230317_142139Inside Covent Garden

20230317_161549Dishoom dishes

…and that’s 72 hours in London! This itinerary, by no means, encompasses all there is to do in town, let alone in depth– in fact, many of the sites can be seen while walking and not all of them are worth paying to go inside (especially the gimmicky ones like Madame Tussaud’s). There are loads more places which I haven’t covered, including Camden Market, King’s Cross, The British Museum, and so forth. Not to forget tons of good eateries out there…those definitely require an extra day or two to see, do, and eat. However, I hope this post gives you an idea of your first time in London, and to enjoy a taste of it all!

Have you been to London before? Let me know!

— Rebecca

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Published by Rebecca

Blogger, world traveler, poet, foodie, part-time penguin. Welcome!

49 thoughts on “72 Hours in London: Things to See and Do”

  1. It’s a good guide for introduction to London. Sky garden offers great free views, London Eye is a great but pricey option for families. If it rains one can always choose one of free museums such as Natural history museum or British museu m, National gallery etc. A boat ride down the Thames is a great way to see the city (regular lines not tourist trips) as well as taking a double decker through central London. I had fun visiting Sherlock Holmes museum on my first visit to London as well as seeing the crown jewels in Tower of London (but it so expensive now). Parks are beatiful too. There are so many options really depending on one’s personal taste. I like your mews hunt.

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    1. Agree to everything you wrote, especially from a London lover like yourself! I’ve never seen the Crown Jewels during my visits, but I’ve heard it’s too expensive to visit and not entirely worth it. The mews were a highlight for me, that’s for sure. Thanks for reading and commenting, Tanja!

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  3. We travelled to London back in 2011 from Melbourne and we loved it. We stayed only in the city for a few weeks and we walked everywhere, saw most sites, enjoyed great meals and went to lots of pubs. I can’t wait to get back there. It’s a great city just to walk and watch people too.

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    1. That’s wonderful! A few weeks in London is a solid amount of time to really get to know the city; I’ve only ever had a few days, so it’d be nice to have a longer stay and take it all in!

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    1. I like walking in the city not just because it’s free, but also you get to discover a lot more of the environment as opposed to, say, taking the Underground. But sometimes, taking transportation can be convenient, especially if pressed for time or if one’s too tired! I’ve checked out Camden before, but I’ve yet to see Greenwich. Perhaps next time!

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  6. There is so much to see and do in London! We went in June 2022 right as they were setting up of the Jubileee so we couldn’t get close to Buckingham Palace. The Tower of London was one of our favorite things to see, especially the Crown Jewels. We loved Dishoom and thought the foodie scene was quite good!

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    1. I can imagine going to London in the summer would be nicer weather (it’s been pretty cold during my visits in the winter and spring)! The food scene honestly rivals big cities like LA and NYC here, and it’d take countless visits back to London to try them all!

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  7. As a Londoner I found it fascinating to see what you would include and what leave out in this itinerary! Lots of good suggestions (although this programme would leave me exhausted!) It’s a shame you haven’t recommended any of our great museums, especially as they are free. The British Museum, Victoria & Albert and National Gallery would all be on my ‘recommended’ list 🙂 I would probably recommend St James’ Park over Regents Park and skip that area in favour of Spitalfields and Shoreditch. I definitely echo your recommendations of Borough Market in addition to the obvious main sights, and also agree with the suggestion to skip Madame Tussauds! And although I personally like St Paul’s, I think if you’re paying to go inside one of our great cathedrals I would choose Westminster Abbey in preference because of the immensity of its history and significance in British ceremonial occasions.

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    1. I’ve actually been to The British Museum and Regents Park during my first visit to London; I would recommend them if one had more time in town. I’d love to check out the inside of Westminster Abbey next time I visit, as I’ve heard good things about it. Thanks for reading and commenting, especially from a Londoner like you!

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  8. I love this perspective, especially tasty yet less expensive places to eat. We went to London in 2004, saw the changing of the guards and did the Big Red Bus Tour. That tour was a good overview. We went to the Tower of London, saw the London Bridge and Eye.

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  12. I went to London in the summer of 2007 and I remember how expensive the city was. The UK was the last country I went to on a month-long trip to five European countries, but after three weeks on Continental Europe, the prices in the UK capital felt really steep. Luckily there were places where you could go in for free, like the National Gallery. When I go back, I should have scones with clotted cream and jam like in one of your photos!

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    1. I guess London has always been expensive, even over 15 years ago! It’s imperative to have clotted cream and jam on your scones in the UK (haha), so I hope you can try it out upon a return visit!

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  14. I’ve been to London several times, and with in-laws in England, I know I’ll go back again many times, so it’s nice to see some things (like the Mews) that I haven’t done. Even if you don’t pay to see the crown jewels, the history within the Tower of London makes it a must-see, in my view. Great guide, Rebecca!

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    1. Thank you! The mews were a lot of fun to go hunting for, as there are dozens in the city! I guess I’ll have to give the Tower of London a chance for my next visit! Thanks for reading and commenting!

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      1. Yes, and read ALL the Phillipa Gregory books about the Plantagenets and Tudors (in order) before you go. Not only will you not be able to put them down, but also the Tower will be that much more imbued with history and meaning.

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  15. Ahh it’s lovely to see your visit written up 🙂 I LOVE that you went to Greggs and Nandos, you’re basically British. And it was so nice to see you on this trip, I’m glad you enjoyed your second visit to London more than the first!

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  17. You covered good places. I’ve been to London for a couple of days only, and I lost the first one stuck in my hotel thanks to storm Dennis. I crammed what I could on my last day: a quick tour of the British Museum, lunch at Chinatown, outside view of at Buckingham Palace, brisk walk at St James Park. I really wanted tea and scones but ended up with a quick bite at a pub instead before heading to Heathrow.

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  18. I spent the night at a London Heathrow airport hotel once for an impromptu layover due to a storm. The hotel was great, but didn’t get the chance to do a proper visit of London. I love your pictures and recommendations. I used to think the Tower Bridge was the “London Bridge” people talked about, but now I know the difference! Thank you for sharing!

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  21. You certainly include some solid highlights here Rebecca, especially for first timers to the city. Getting to see a ‘mews’ is an excellent tip that I feel the more casual traveller might miss out on. We did a bunch of Mews on Sladja’s first visit to London, including Osten. To live in any of these streets would be such a huge privilege. I keep meaning to eat in Chinatown but it never works out for one reason or another. Usually because I go for Indian ha ha. I will keep Dishoom behind my ear.

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    1. Thanks, Leighton! The mews are certainly a treat to look around for, and are always a delight to find. Chinatown is touristy, but has lots of delicious and affordable food! I tried Dishoom on my recent trip to London, and it was tasty! Hope you return to London to check out Chinatown!

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  22. i think its amazing how different ‘budget’ travel is these days! $50USD a day was budget in 1999 lol. including accommodation. Now that wouldnt get you into pretty anything in London! I love London but by god 5 minutes in and you’re much poorer than you were!

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  23. I also love to read the New York Times 36 hours series before traveling to a new city. Next time I to London I will re-read your post and definitely need to stop finally to Borough Market 😀

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