2014 17-Mile Drive Part 2
Views along the 17-Mile Drive (January 2014).

The coast of Central California is a unique one– it’s not the peaceful, sandy beaches of Southern California, nor is it quite the cool, chilly harbor of the north. Rather, it’s wild and untamed, with its rocky shores and isolated climate that make for a scenic drive-thru between the massive, urban epicenters of Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Likewise with Cambria, I have not returned to Central California in at least five years. The last time I was there was in my last year of college, before I graduated and moved abroad for work. My family and I took a Spring Break trip to this part of my home state, as we had done in the three years prior to that– it was our unofficial vacation tradition, as it was perfect for a few days away from hectic city life.

There are dozens of sites that one can check out while in Central California. While I haven’t been to every single one of them, I’ve been to a few of the most-famous ones. I’ll be recounting those I have been to, as means of showing you a bit more of the beauty of this Californian region and what it has to offer. Here they are!

Solvang

Nicknamed as “Little Denmark,” Solvang is a tiny city of 5800 inhabitants in the Santa Ynez Valley, not too far off from the Santa Barbara wine country. Its name means “sunny field” in Danish, as it’d been settled by Danish immigrants throughout much of the mid-19th to the 20th centuries. The city itself is modeled off of the traditional, half-timbered houses of the Danish countryside, and it’s a very-popular stop for visitors while journeying through California.

As you pull into Solvang’s center, you’ll feel as if you were transported into a Danish village (albeit with a vaguely-American flair, e.g. wider, smooth-paved streets). Shops upon shops are filled with boutique items, from handcrafted jewelry to even the traditional Danish dress– I personally didn’t buy them, but I liked to window shop while strolling the streets in the “Old Town.”

Solvang
Solvang’s “Old Town” (July 2013).

Food-wise, my family and I would pick any random restaurant whenever we were in town. A popular one is Solvang Restaurant: the food is far from what you would think is Danish cuisine (in fact, the food is 100% American, with waffles, burgers, and salads), but it does the trick if you are hungry and not looking for anything fancy.

However, what the restaurant does serve that is unique is the æbleskiver, a traditional Danish snack that resembles a doughier popover (or Japanese takoyaki minus the octopus and savoriness). It’s served as a dessert, with jam on the side and powdered sugar on top. Considering we never had something quite like it before, my family and I found the æbleskiver a special treat after our very-American meal.

Aebleskiver!
Æbleskiver.

Another note-worthy food we tried in town was the Almond Butter Ring, a colossal of a pastry heavy in sugar, icing and, you guessed it, butter. While not traditionally-Danish in nature, it’s a spin-off of the sosterkage (“Sister’s Cake”), a sort of coffee cake. My family and I decided to purchase it at the town’s local bakery, Olsen’s Danish Village Bakery, and we took it with us as we continued our road trip up the coast. Be warned: it’s really heavy!

Butter ring!
Almond Butter Ring.

Solvang is super small, and you do not need much time wandering the “Old Town” to check out the half-timbered houses, Danish windmill replicas, and the Hans Christian Andersen statue copy before you call it a day. The town is perfect just for a stop in the afternoon, before making your way onward to your next destination at hand.

Hearst Castle

A monumental gem of California’s early 20th-century history, Hearst Castle is a treasured site that is a must-see while venturing along the coast. It was nearly 30 years in the making by publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst, who’d envisioned a place to collect artworks, sculptures, textiles, even silverware, as his own private museum. His opulence and lifestyle made him a legend throughout the 1920’s and 1930’s, a sort of real-life Gatsby.

With over 40,000 acres (162 squared kilometers), the estate of Hearst Castle is massive. Hearst himself endearingly referred to the area as “The Ranch.” One can see hills upon hills stretching for miles, and there’s rumored to be wild zebras roaming the land! As Hearst had owned the world’s largest zoo back in the day, it might not be a shock to find some of the 120-remaining zebras still around. I don’t recall catching sight of them when I last went, but it would’ve been really exciting!

The “castle” itself (officially known as “San Simeon”) is perched at the top of a hill, and it’s an eclectic blend of different architectural styles inspired by those from Europe. Hearst had commissioned Julia Morgan, the first woman to have studied architecture at the école des Beaux-Arts in Paris, to create his dream home, and she took inspiration from Spanish, Italian, and Greek architecture to make it come true.

Upon reaching the “castle grounds,” you’ll come across its highlights. First to spot is the Casa Grande, the main residence house. Its church-like exterior was modeled off of the main cathedral in Ronda, Spain, along with a colonial flair that makes it vaguely Californian in nature.

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Casa Grande (August 2010).

There are also two notable pools inspired by Greek and Roman architecture, including the outdoor Neptune’s Pool and the indoor Roman Pool. They were swimming pools for Hearst, his family, and celebrity guests in the past– the parties thrown must have been the stuff of legends!

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Neptune’s Pool.
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Roman Pool.

Tours will likely take you through Hearst’s antique collections, which the tycoon himself had accumulated for over 40 years. You can see just about any artifact from any civilization, from Egyptian to Greek to even Peruvian. For museum-goers, it can be fascinating seeing the sheer wealth possessed by this man to acquire such refined works, but I personally found it gaudy and irreverent to the actual history and culture from which the artifacts originated.

Carmel-by-the-Sea

Also known just as “Carmel,” this small city is situated along the Monterey Peninsula, which offers some of the most breathtaking ocean views in California. It’s a small place home to a notable artistic community (e.g. poets, artists, actors) as they foster their craft with the peaceful sea.

Besides enjoying its white sandy beach and stroll along the shopping street of Ocean Avenue, there isn’t a lot to do in Carmel itself. It’s more of a starting point of the 17-Mile Drive, a scenic route that passes through Pebble Beach and Pacific Grove. One drives along a myriad of sites, including golf courses, mansions, and several natural wonders including the Lone Cypress.

2014 Lone Cypress
Lone Cypress.
2014 The Ghost Tree
Ghost Tree.

Although the 17-Mile Drive is a popular route for visitors, it rarely is saturated with traffic. With all of its 17 miles (27 kilometers) to go through, you can find peace and quiet while enjoying the nature in this magical part of California.

Thanks for reading! More Spring Break adventures coming up!

 

— Rebecca

10 thoughts on “Destination: Solvang, Hearst Castle, & Carmel-by-the-Sea, California

  1. There’s nothing more inspiring than wild and untamed beaches. While they are the main reason why I always wanted to explore some parts of California’s coastline than seeing your photo of Almond Butter Ring I’ve got another reason to visit. I would eat it all by myself 😂

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    1. Outsiders often associate California with its southern part (e.g. Los Angeles, San Diego), but there’s so much more to that…the entire CA coastline is a natural wonder, and I hope you can go (and the Almond Butter Ring is certainly an incentive to go sooner than later!).

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    1. The beaches are quiet and pretty isolated; I think that’s what makes them all the more beautiful! Hope you can explore them some day. 🙂

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