Destination: Istanbul, Turkey (Part 3)

Due to its sheer popularity and fame throughout the world, Istanbul is easily mistaken as the capital of Turkey. In actuality, however, the capital is Ankara, which is located toward the center of the country. One can say, though, that Istanbul is the historic and cultural capital of Turkey, as its centuries under Roman and Ottoman rule have created a distinctive Western-Eastern blend that we see today.

I, along with a friend, spent five non-consecutive nights in Istanbul back in June. We had two nights upon arriving into the city, which we spent on a guided tour through the main sights (Blue Mosque, Hippodrome, Hagia Sophia). Following our whirlwind journey through the rest of the country, we returned about a week later to Istanbul, where we had one more night with our packaged tour; it took us on a tranquil cruise along the Bosporus to see both the European and Asian sides of town, as well as views of the Golden Horn from Pierre Loti Hill.

The packaged tour we’d booked was Tours 4 Turkey (T4T), and there are various packages that one can choose from should they want to go on a guided tour throughout the country. The one we’d chosen was for low-budget travelers, which cost 445€ per person for an eight-day tour. Not a bad deal at all, but I will say that you’ll be spending three of those nights on overnight buses, instead of hotels. It can be physically-draining, as you’ll be arriving to your destinations tired, but still have to do sightseeing for the day.

I’ve taken my fair share of overnight buses and a budget tour in Georgia beforehand, and I knew going into Turkey’s tour that it wouldn’t be a luxury kind of trip. The eight days were exhausting, but my friend and I saw so much in such short time: from Istanbul to Cappadocia to Pamukkale, we hit the hot spots of the country efficiently. Our point-of-contact (“A”) was always a Whatsapp call away in case we ran into trouble, and she was fantastic in making sure our journey was as smooth as possible.

Overall, I would recommend T4T if you’re the adventurous type, as it does require a lot of moving around every day from city to city. If you’re more of a slow-paced traveler who would like to stay in five-star hotels, then this tour would not be for you. Personally, I wouldn’t choose to do it again (I’m getting too old for budget traveling), but for what I’d paid for and saw, I’m content with my experience.

Following the end of our eight-day tour, we decided to extend our stay in Istanbul for an extra two nights, partly because we wanted to explore on our own, and partly because flights back to France were cheaper on the day we would be leaving. Unfortunately, my friend fell sick during our last two nights in town, so she rested in the hotel while I decided to explore Istanbul on my own.

I started my day by heading to Basilica Cistern before they opened at 9:00. This underground site dates back to the Byzantine Empire under the rule of Justinian I, and this cathedral-sized area once stored water for the city. Today, little of the water remains, as most of it had been drained out for visitors to check out.

The Basilica Cistern is no plain water system, though, as the interior is decorated with several intricately-designed columns and dim, warm lights. In fact, this site has been featured in American author Dan Brown’s Inferno, and it’s no surprise with its eerie and mysterious architecture. It cost 20 lira (3€) to enter, and I spent a short time walking through the dark inside; I came across the famous Sideways Medusa column and overall tried being careful not to slip on the wet ground. The site was definitely an atmospheric one, to say the least.

Next was the Grand Bazaar: although my friend and I had wandered the large covered market the day before, I decided to spend a bit longer inside without getting too lost in the 4000-plus shops. I didn’t buy anything, but rather I went from store to store and indulged in the eye-catching lanterns, plates, and rugs that vendors were selling. Every turn had something beautiful to offer, and it was window shopping to the T(urkey).

I also had the pay homage to Spice Bae (real name: Nusret Gökçe) at his restaurant Nusr-Et Steakhouse inside the Grand Bazaar. Rather, I paid homage to his statue outside the restaurant, with him “sprinkling salt” over some imaginary dish. The steakhouse itself is Argentinian-style (not to forget very expensive), so my visit was more of a cheeky one than actually dining in.

What I had for lunch instead was döner kebab at Dönerci Şahin Usta, just around the corner from the Grand Bazaar. I’d heard about this hole-in-the-wall, but well-known joint from Mike Chen on Strictly Dumpling, and I knew that I had to get it for myself. I was there before it opened at 11:30, and I watched the massive hunk of delicious meat rotate in its juices: the chef “wiped” pita bread along the spit to soak up the juices before slicing the meat, tossing in grilled onions and vegetables, and serving it to us hungry tourists.

One döner kebab was a bit hefty at 28 lira (4-5€), but it was hefty in taste. If I had to be honest, it was the best kebab I’ve ever had. The meat was incredibly tender, thinly-sliced and with a slight outside char for texture. Its juices were spilling everywhere, as I struggled to contain everything while eating in front of the Nuruosmaniye Mosque. It really felt like I was eating something more than just meat, more like a “meat fruit,” and I was tempted to get another one after finishing it– if the lines weren’t so long, I would’ve done so!

I spent the afternoon at Taksim Square, the heart of modern Istanbul. Whereas I’d spent most of my time staying in and exploring the historic sites in-and-around Sultanahmet Square, it was time to see some place new. I took the tram across the Bosporus, getting a glimpse of the triumphant Galata Tower before reaching the area.

Before heading to Taksim, I visited the Rainbow Stairs, which are considered a street art project by the locals. The city government has tried to periodically remove the colors over the years, but locals have continually painted them back. The stairs’ colors were a bit washed-out when I went, but I could still see the vibrancy of it all as I took them up to the main square.

I soon reached the bustling pedestrian street that led to Taksim Square. The street was lined with gleaming buildings that contained restaurants, souvenir shops, and international clothing stores for locals and tourists to eat and shop at– it didn’t feel too different from strolling the Champs Élysées or Soho. I ducked into one of the beautiful passages,  Çiçek Pasajı, before popping out on the other side and coming across a stuffed mussels (midye dolma) stand. I’d been meaning to try them, and the two girls working the stand were kind enough to offer me two samples to try before I purchased a few for the road– actually, I inhaled them within seconds of buying them as I walked away, as they were incredibly aromatic and delicious!

Finally, I made it to Taksim Square, and I then took the tram back to the other side of the Bosporus. I decided to have afternoon tea at a historic tea room, all the while trying an interesting Turkish dessert: tavuk göğsü. It’s a type of milk pudding, but made with chicken! You might think it sounds unappetizing, but in actuality, it’s pretty good. Rather, the dessert has the consistency of a sweet, milky mochi, and you can barely taste any chicken in it– I could tell there was a slight, fibrous texture to it (as it’s made from shredded chicken breast), but otherwise I really enjoyed it. I’d give it a go!

Just before returning to the hotel, I purchased simit, a large, bagel-like bread, for supper. Lots of sesame seeds, and I admit I’d bought it towards the end of day, so it was slightly stale, but for a light dinner, it was all I needed.

I spent my last day in Istanbul taking it easy, as I would be catching an evening flight back to France. My friend left for an earlier flight, so I explored the last of town on my own again. I decided to head towards the Bosporus once more, checking out the Spice Market (aka “Egyptian Bazaar”) along the way. It’s a smaller-covered market compared to the Grand Bazaar, and I found it less-overwhelming. The pyramids of spices, nuts, and dried fruits looked very enticing, and it was a pleasure to walk through the shops to see them all.

After a brief stroll along the Bosporus, I got lunch: I’d been eyeing this Malaysian restaurant near the Grand Bazaar, so I went to try it out. While I do enjoy Turkish food, I was also curious to see how other cuisines matched up in the country (plus, I never had Malaysian food before!). I ordered lauk ayam (chicken stew with rice) and teh tarik (pulled tea). The dish itself had some heat, but what I really loved was the pulled tea: it was sweet and milky, and I fell in love with it upon the first sip. Really keen on having it again, along with other Malaysian dishes!

I ended my time in Istanbul with a baklava-tea break at one of the colorful cafes close to Sultanahmet Square and a stroll once more through the Hippodrome. I caught my ride to the airport in the late afternoon, and got some Turkish delight samples and Popeye’s in the terminal. It was then a matter of catching my evening flight back to Lyon, arriving past midnight.

Overall, Istanbul was a pleasant experience. Granted, I spent most of my time concentrated near Sultanahmet Square, but I’m glad that I also ventured out to other parts of the city, e.g. Grand Bazaar, Taksim. While I didn’t actually set foot on the Asian side of Istanbul, the trip through the rest of the country would count as being part of Asia. The sights were all beautiful (albeit very touristy), the food was good, and it was a solid five nights in the cultural and historic capital of Turkey.

I’ll be recapping my time spent in the rest of Turkey soon. Stay tuned!

 

— Rebecca