Destination: Tbilisi & Mtskheta, Georgia

As one of the three countries wedged between the Caucasus mountains, Georgia is a small country that many travelers still don’t know much about, let alone have heard of in the first place. It’s not to be confused with the U.S. state of the same name, and it’s definitely not to be associated as part of Russia (which might anger some people). Georgia might not be the first country that many travelers think of when visiting Europe, but nevertheless it’s a rich, worthwhile one full of history, hospitality, and hearty food.

I admit, I had no idea that Georgia was a country until just a year ago, when my Couchsurfing host in Prague told me about Georgian food. I was confused as to why Prague would have southern American cooking, but in fact, it wasn’t the case at all. After trying lobio and lobiani at the recommended restaurant, not only was I hooked on Georgian food, but also I was intrigued about this country I’d never heard of.

A quick Google search will reveal just how beautiful its geography is. Despite being close to the Middle East, the country has a vast diversity of forests, deserts, mountains, even coastline. In fact, I’m told Georgia experiences relatively-temperate weathers year-round, for the Caucasus mountains in the north block the cold drift from Russia and the Black Sea to the west offers coastal respite from otherwise-unbearable heat. Dotted throughout its varied landscape are plenty of Christian Orthodox churches, Svan towers, and farm villages that will be sure to take your breath away (they did, for me!).

From my dining experience in Prague and Google search, I knew that I had to visit Georgia at some point during my time in Europe. It was a bit tricky trying to find affordable and convenient flights over, since it’s so far east (the most east I’ve gone in Europe, honestly). I ended up taking a red-eye flight from Riga to Tbilisi– apparently, it’s common for many incoming flights to arrive early in the morning, so I arrived in Tbilisi at a glorious 3:00.

I’d arranged shuttle service with the tour company I would be using for my week in Georgia to reach my hostel– it cost 70 lari (about 23€) which was a lot, especially for a really-affordable country. Had I known that I could’ve used the 24-hour public bus for 0.50 lari (0,20€!!!), I would’ve saved money– I did take it at the end of my trip, which was very convenient, though!

Although I’d only booked for one night at my hostel, I ended up paying for an extra half night to take a bed to sleep once I arrived at 4:00. I would be starting my first guided tour in another five or six hours, and it was wise to rest up a little, especially since it would be a full-day tour of Tbilisi. I crashed on one of the bunks, still in my dirty, traveling clothes.

I was spending six nights in Georgia, with a packaged, budget tour that I’d found online. Although I could’ve figured out getting places on my own, I also wasn’t sure how reliable public transport was between cities– despite being a small country, Georgia’s infrastructure is a hit-or-miss: some roads are well-paved, while others not. So I decided to pay a little more for a tour that would save the hassle of figuring all of that out.

I booked with Budget Georgia, a company which I have nothing but good words to say. It’s a relatively-new company, founded in 2017, and offers both day and multi-day tours for budget travelers. I’d booked a five-day tour of Georgia for 440 lari (about 140€). Granted, it didn’t include accommodation (I had to book hostels myself) or entrance fees to sites, but the guided tours and transport services were stellar and professional. Many of my guides were young, in their twenties, and they offered a youthful vibe to the tours I went on– super friendly and respectful. If you ever visit, I recommend Budget Georgia!

Although I’d booked for a five-day tour for my six-night visit, I spent the first night just touring Tbilisi and its surroundings. As the capital and largest city in Georgia, Tbilisi has a striking blend of both ancient and modern architecture, as evident in its old, thermal baths and futuristic buildings, all scrambled together.

I was to meet my tour guide at Shota Rustaveli square, named after the country’s most-famous medieval poet. My guide arrived, and we got on the tour coach with about ten other passengers. All of them were Russian, and it was the first time that I, an Anglophone, was in the minority on a tour. Being that Georgia was a former Soviet state, many Georgians still speak Russian and often get Russian tourists. My guide switched between Russian and English on the tour, so I was still able to understand the history and landmarks in town.

Known as “Sakartvelo” to Georgians, the country got its name “Georgia” due to Saint George, its patron saint. It has had a long history with Russia, most notably for being under Soviet rule in the 20th century under Joseph Stalin who, believe it or not, is actually Georgian. Even since its independence in 1991, Georgia is still having disputes with Russia, most notably in the Abkhazia and South Ossetia regions. I was also surprised to see Russian-occupied towns along the highway during my tour outside of Tbilisi, and it’s rather scary to imagine that, if the Russians continue to occupy more land, Georgia might not even be a country in the near future.

The tour bus drove down the bustling Shota Rustaveli Avenue, passing by several notable buildings including the Georgian National Museum, the Opera House, and the Parliament. We also passed through Liberty Square, which is the main hub for all things happening– shopping, eating, and tons of traffic.

Our first stop where we got off was at the Leaning Tower of Tbilisi, a clock tower that actually was added in 2011, and every day at noon, it would play a puppet show for spectators to watch. We did just that, before we continued on to the stunning Holy Trinity Cathedral, with a gilded dome and views of the city from above. It was constructed just in 1995, as means to commemorate the country’s Orthodox Christian history and their independence from Russia a few years prior.

Our bus crossed the Mtkvari River, and we passed by the more-modern structures of Tbilisi, including the mushroom-capped Public Service Hall, tube-like Rike concert hall, and the curvy, ribbon-like Bridge of Peace. We made our next stop at Europe Square, where we got views of the 12th-century Metekhi church upon a rocky cliff, overlooking the Mtkvari.

Soon after, we concluded our tour of Tbilisi. We would spend the afternoon going outside of the city to visit Mtskheta, one of the oldest cities in Georgia dating back to the 5th century BC. Essentially, it was a matter of seeing two religious sites– the Jvari monastery and Svetitskhoveli cathedral– during our time there. The former was located on a high hill that overlooks Mtskheta proper, along with stunning views of the Mtskheta, Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers coming together– apparently, such views have inspired the poems of Russian Romantic poet Mikhail Lermontov in the 19th century, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it did!

I was absolutely starving by the time we reached Mtskheta proper. We were given some free time either to get food or wander the Old Town. Much of the Old Town was just souvenir shops, so I found the nearest restaurant and got myself a late lunch. I ordered an Adjarian khachapuri (aka “Georgian pizza”) and chacha, which is a strong spirit similar to Italian grappa. The khachapuri not only looked delicious (it’s shaped to resemble a boat), but also it was delicious– full of cheese, butter, and eggs. It was immensely heavy that I didn’t need dinner that night! The chacha was incredibly strong, possibly the strongest spirit I’ve ever had– even Polish vodka and Hungarian pálinka seem weak in comparison!

Our tour ended after Mtskheta; we returned to Tbilisi in the late afternoon. I spent some time on my own in the city, first taking the cable car up to the TV tower, where I got sweeping views of all of Tbilisi before heading back to the center to see the Bridge of Peace close up. It was then a matter of returning to my hostel, checking in, and *finally* showering after 48 hours– it felt glorious.

Tbilisi is a sprawling city, but I found my overall impressions of it quite underwhelming. Perhaps it was because I didn’t have that much time in town, but I wasn’t so impressed with the crowds or sites I saw on the tour. However, I’m not ruling out the possibility of revisiting one day, to spend more time taking in the city and eating more delicious Georgian food along the way!

More adventures in Georgia coming up. Next: Kutaisi, Georgia!

 

— Rebecca