Destination: Budapest, Hungary (2018 Edition– Part 2)

Following my *wild* second night in Budapest, I managed to drag myself out of bed the next morning to leave from my Couchsurfing accommodation, as my host had originally allowed me to stay the first two nights– I would be staying with a friend of a friend for the remaining three nights, so I hit the road to meet up with him for the day.

I met up with my new host, and he showed me around his flat, which was really modern– it was located a bit further from the main sights, but it was still situated in the city center. After getting settled in, I headed out towards the Parliament for a visit, stopping by a lángos stand to try the eponymous fried dough, which is often topped with sour cream and grated cheese. It’s a type of street food, and I’d say that it’s the ideal drunk food after a long night out– however, as a proper meal itself, I admit that it was too much. Best to eat it while it’s still warm, as it can start to feel heavy and greasy once it cools.

After the *extremely filling* lunch, I headed to the Parliament and paid 2400 forints (about 8€) for a tour inside. Our English tour guide was very informative about the inside of the building, although we only got to tour not quite half of the entire place, as only a part of it is open to the public. We visited the main hall decked out in royal red carpets and glowing chandeliers before entering the central hall (not the same as the main hall) where two guards stood between the Holy Crown of Hungary. What made this crown interesting was the face that the small cross attached to it is bent at an angle– tale has it that it was bent when it was being stored in an iron chest back in the 17th century: the chest had been quickly closed without considering the height of the cross itself, causing it to bend. Today, it’s the emblem of the country– we weren’t allowed to take photos of it, but I can say that it looked regal, indeed.

We continued onto the assembly hall of the House of Magnates, which dazzled us with its opulent, golden walls and sprawling seats. If anything, this was the highlight of the entire Parliament tour– it was difficult to pry my eyes away from the beautiful sight, and I couldn’t help take photo after photo of the magnificent interior.

Our tour lasted no longer than 45 minutes, and soon enough, I exited the building. I decided to make the walk across the city to the Dohány Street Synagogue, as I hadn’t seen it during my last trip to Budapest in 2016. The walk took about 30 to 40 minutes, and I soon arrived in front of the building’s exterior. I wanted to go inside, and I was willing to pay a bit for the entrance– however, I saw that it was closed, which I found strange, because I got there around 16:00…then again, I suppose the winter hours were quite limited, because I later discovered that the synagogue, indeed, closed at 16:00. All the same, I made a tour around the building’s outside and managed to seek some photos of its courtyard behind the bars with carved Stars of David on its iron exterior.

Since it was getting dark by then, I started heading back to my host’s flat, stopping by a supermarket for some groceries. Had dinner in the flat that night, and I decided to meet up with a Couchsurfer who happened to be staying in Budapest the same time I was. We’d actually been messaging prior to my arrival in the city, and we chose to get drinks together that night. Considering that I had a good time with the other Couchsurfer with whom I got drinks on my first night, I decided to continue meeting other travelers while traveling myself.

The Couchsurfer and I met up at a bar near the Opera, as there was some Couchsurfing mixer happening that night. He was a recent college graduate from India who was in Budapest for six weeks on an internship, and he was just spending his time meeting people and getting drinks. After getting complimentary shots at the mixer, we got some drinks and spent about three hours chatting amicably and getting to know each other. Eventually, we headed out to Fogashaz, one of the well-known ruin bars for more drinks– we ended up taking too many pálinka shots, which resulted in us getting crazy on the dance floor, but it was a lot of fun. We left sometime around 3:00, as I was feeling tired and wanted to return to my host’s flat. The Couchsurfer walked me halfway back, and I returned, managing to shower and freshen up before crashing on the Futon around 4:00.

I was really exhausted the next morning– two nights of going out and returning late was a bit much for me. Originally, I’d planned on doing a day trip to several small towns that day, but I decided to put it off until the following day, as I was really too tired to do much. Ended up getting out of bed around noon and spending part of the late morning and early afternoon at the Szchényi thermal bath– I didn’t try it the last time I went to Budapest, so I definitely wanted to experience it while in the city again.

On my way to Szchényi, I passed by Heros Square, along with the Vajdahunyad Castle, which is a model of Count Dracula’s. At the thermal baths, I paid the admission fee, which was 5500 forints (about 17€). I’d brought my bathing suit and towel, so that I didn’t have to pay extra for them and, soon enough, I entered the thermal baths, which were massive beyond comparison. Admittedly, it’s a really-touristy place, as I saw all but foreigners– British, German, Italian, Chinese– all in the big soaking tub. I didn’t spend too long soaking (and purifying myself) in the baths, as I ended up just exploring the multiple rooms inside, some with lovely interior designs. Looking back, I’d say that the Szchényi thermal baths are quite overrated, but it’s still worth the experience whilst in Budapest.

I was starving by the time I exited Szchényi, so I got some lángos at a nearby food stand. It was massive, enough to feed two people easily– it certainly served as my lunch and dinner for the day!

Returning to my host’s flat, I rested for a bit before deciding to go out just as the sun was about to set– I was keen on capturing the iconic landmarks (e.g. the Parliament, Chain Bridge, Fisherman’s Bastion) lit up at night, so I headed out. Stopped by the Parliament first– although it wasn’t quite dark yet, I started there and strolled along the Danube River, where I also saw the Shoes on the Danube Bank statue, honoring the Jews who were shot and killed by Nazi-supporting Hungarians during WWII.

Continuing my stroll, I made it to the Chain Bridge, where it was dark enough for it to light up. Photo opportunity ensued before crossing over to the Buda side and hiking up to the Fisherman’s Bastion to marvel at its architectural glow– from there, I could see Pest lit up in all of its liveliness.

Of course, I couldn’t end my evening photo opportunity without that of the Parliament, which was absolutely golden against the black stretch of the winter sky and Danube. I crossed the Margaret Bridge to make my way back to my host’s home– I was absolutely tired by the end of it, and I opted to stay in for the night to rest up. No going out that night for me, as I wanted to be fit and able for the day trip the next morning.

I spent the next day taking a circuit day trip to three towns outside of Budapest: Esztergom, Visegrád, and Szentendre (more on them later). Returned to the capital in the mid-afternoon, where I treated myself to kürtőskalács, the Hungarian chimney cake that’s similar to the ones I’ve had in the Czech Republic and Poland. Relaxing back at my host’s flat, I decided to head out later that night to enjoy my last night in Budapest. I ended up hanging out with the same Couchsurfer whom I went out with two nights prior, and we got some beers at a pub before hitting a club where it happened to be an unlimited drinks night for a set price of 3000 forints (10€).

What made the club distinctive from the previous ones I’d been to was the fact that it was a lot swankier (with people decked out in suits and heels– I certainly stood out with my jeans and tennis shoes) and there was more a mix of locals and tourists. As usual, the Couchsurfer and I danced and had fun, although I kept it tame since I had to leave in the morning to make it to my next destination– around 3:00, I returned to my host’s flat.

I left around 10:00 that morning– I said goodbye to my host before taking the bus over to the station where I caught my Flixbus to the next destination on my January trip. With that, I said farewell to Budapest once more. Those five nights in the Hungarian capital were intense, but lots of fun. I met lots of new people, explored the sites in more depth, and enjoyed the lively atmosphere that it had to offer. Definitely worth the visit, should you decide to go!

I’ll be recapping my day trip from Budapest in the next post: Esztergom, Visegrád, and Szentendre, Hungary!

— Rebecca