Destination: Vernon, France

Upon hearing of Vernon, you might wonder just where this place is. Or maybe you’ve heard of it in-passing, since its train station is a popular stop for tourists on their way to Giverny, located about five kilometers away, for a visit to Monet’s house and gardens as a day trip from Paris. Whichever way you see it, Vernon is a fairly off-the-grid town, often overshadowed, but nevertheless has charm and some places worth checking out.

Stepping off the train from Paris Saint-Lazare, the gare of Vernon-Giverny welcomes you with footprint markers on the floor, in the style of Claude Monet’s famous lily pond painting that leads you to the bus shuttle just outside of the station to take you to the famous artist’s famous gardens. Or, you can choose to deviate from the footprints and head into centre ville, where clusters of half-timbered houses offer that charming, historique atmosphere that’s characteristic of the Normandy region.

Just across from the hôtel de Ville is the collégiale Notre-Dame, a collegiate church that absolutely towers in austere fashion. Its bells chime every hour, which can be heard even across town near the outskirts. Personally, I have never been inside of the church, but I can imagine it as dark and solemn as its exterior appearance.

A block behind the historic town center is the sweeping Seine river, which runs all the way through the Normandy region before exiting out into the Atlantic near Le Havre. In the springtime, the river shimmers as blue as the sky, in contrast with the shamrock-green trees whose branches spill over the shore and into the waters. Spring is the perfect time for locals and visitors to take a stroll along the Seine, perhaps have a picnic while soaking up the sun’s rays after being starved of their warmth since winter. You might even see several regional cruise lines docked near the pont Clemenceau, as they take tourists from Paris to Le Havre for idle scenery.

Crossing the bridge, you’ll see Vernon’s iconic monument, le Vieux Moulin, which is a water mill that dates back to the 16th century. Half on land, half on water, its no wonder that le Vieux Moulin is a haven for photographers and architecture lovers.

Right next to the old mill is one of the two châteaux in town, the Château des Tourelles dates all the way back to the late 12th century and played an important part in the battle for Normandy between Philippe Auguste and Richard the Lionheart back in the day. Small and unassuming, it’s incredible just how long a history it has had over the centuries.

Before leaving centre ville, it’s worth a quick stroll through la rue Potard, which is reputed to be the oldest street in Vernon, all the way from the 12th century. This quiet, narrow street was one of the few which had survived bombardment during WWII, and its peeling half-timbered houses provide a glimpse into how people had lived before the war.

From the town center, you’ll take the main street uphill towards the outskirts, where you’ll find a few small woods that are ideal for a morning run or an afternoon stroll. Interestingly, there’s reputed to be some wild hogs in certain areas of the woods– it’s a matter of being careful and not venturing too far in!

The woods surround the second château of Vernon, known as the château de Bizy. It was constructed in the 17th century and it continued to be expanded until the 19th century. While the château de Bizy cannot compare to the famous ones in the Loire valley, its estate is massive, with sweeping green lawns and a simple, but elegant courtyard within the building itself. It’s worth a couple hour’s visit, perhaps a little more should you decide to take a guided tour inside of the château itself.

With a population of perhaps 25,000 people, Vernon is certainly not a big town in comparison with those of Paris or Rouen. However, it’s a place where people know each other, and you often see locals chatting during the outdoor Saturday markets. It has a small-town feel, but also is accustomed to receiving foreigners through tourism often (whether in town or Giverny). Vernon is worth at least a quick look while visiting Monet’s house and gardens nearby; it’s a great place to relax and see a bit more of Normandy before catching the train back to Paris at the end of the day– you’ll thank me later!

Thank for reading– à bientôt!

 

— Rebecca